The Wrongs and Rights of Fashion Internships

As noted in my post a few days ago, there is a NextinFashion contest underway (in collaboration with The Resource List and NYFW)! In addition, author (and fashion industry professional), Natalie Gowans has provided us with another sneak peak of the contest prize, her book, Memoirs of a Fashion Industry Failure, Vol. I.

Part 2. The Internship Problem
Extracts from Memoirs of a Fashion Industry Failure, Volume One,

A stone cold dose of the real facts about starting your career in fashion, and illegal internships, doled out by hardened PR girl Emma Crosby (the woman responsible for launching the Miss 60 brand in the UK), and Ross Perlin, author of scary bed- time read for any graduate: ‘Intern Nation’. In two parts.

Anybody who has tried to find their first job in the fashion industry is likely to have come up against it – the internship problem. You can’t get a job without experience, you can’t get experience without a job. OR, at least, without doing an unpaid internship. There you will do all the things associated with a first job – learn, work hard, put in the full whack of hours, and probably get talked down to a bit and have to kiss a fair bit of boot-heel too – but receive little or no money in return. Instead you will be paid in that golden and elusively indefinable substance – experience. And that sweet stuff (you are led to believe,) will get you a REAL JOB in the end.

The trouble is, more often than not, when your time is up and you hold out your hands for the career you thought would be awaiting you at the end of it all, you are casually kicked to the curb.

“What’s going on?” you may say to yourself after a few months or years of this, wringing your hands and frantically scouring the job pages looking for somebody, anybody who will actually employ you for a living wage – “Isn’t this kind of thing illegal?”

And the answer is: YES. It bloody well is.

“The word ‘internship’ is a smokescreen. It has a glamour attached to it that doesn’t really relate to the reality. In fact, ‘internship’ is not a real job description at all.”

These words were spoken by Ross Perlin, the author of Intern Nation, at a lobby meeting held at Westminster following the ‘Imagine a World Without Interns’ rally outside the Houses of Parliament in June 2011.

He was addressing a crowd of interns, journalists, students, politicians and activists, (and me), as part of a discussion about how to put an end to the current, problematic internship system. And he was alluding to a worrying fact about internships. It is this: they do not really exist.

“What?” you may be asking, screwing up your face in disbelief. “Poppycock! I am doing an internship right now! All my friends are doing them too!” you may be adding, scornfully, preparing to throw this book aside in disgust.

But wait. The fact of the matter is, in the UK at least, (and in many cases in the USA too,) if you are doing the work of a paid employee and working the hours a paid employee would work, and you are NOT getting paid at least National Minimum Wage or the equivalent, then your employer is breaking the law.

The Internship system as it exists now began its life in the States, and has since been exported to many other countries, including the UK. The word ‘intern’ was first used in medicine to describe student doctors, but the terminology gradually crept into other industries, and ‘internship’ evolved to describe a kind of big brother of work-experience and sneaky cousin of the apprenticeship.

Soon, however, it outgrew both of its more lawful and sensible family members and elbowed them aside. Now it is taking over the world, like a nasty virus. And, technically, it just isn’t legal. This sounds surprising, but if you think about it, it makes sense: working for nothing, for a year or longer, no union, no worker’s rights, no minimum wage…sounds a bit fishy doesn’t it?

Ross also hinted at some of the larger ramifications of the nationwide adoption of the internship system in the UK and America:

“Interns allow employers to save billions on labour costs, illegally, and they displace millions of legal, paid employees.”

– ie: internships contribute to the deterioration of the job market.

“They also concentrate opportunities in cities and populous centres where it is expensive to live, so only the wealthy can afford to live there and work for free. This takes away opportunities from those who cannot afford to work for nothing, and from those who live in other (less wealthy) parts of the country.”

– Internships help widen the increasing gap between the nation’s rich and poor.

“The larger impact of internships is affecting a generation. It is delaying the times at which young people are able to reach important life stages – getting paid jobs, buying homes, getting married, having children etc. It is extending the adolescence of an entire generation.”

– And that, of course, affects everything, from the economy to the birth rate. Yep, internships are altering the very fabric of our society.

Scary stuff, eh?

For more blood-curdling facts to keep you awake at night, go and read Ross’s book, Intern Nation: How to Earn Nothing and Learn Little in the Brave New Economy

Or pick up your copy of Memoirs of a Fashion Industry Failure now, to read the rest of the chapter! 

And … try not to have nightmares.

Best wishes,

Natalie Gowans

Watch the Teen Vogue Fashion University Sessions!

The year Teen Vogue Fashion U launched, I excitedly filled out my application, was accepted (even more excited) and then (very) sadly had to decline the offer due to funding (my early college years).Teen Vogue Fashion UniversityThe next year, I applied again but had a scheduling conflict upon acceptance. Yes, I was even more bummed. The years following I had internships and jobs to worry about, so it was not really an option and all of my Fashion U hopes and dreams were lost… well sort of.

This year was different – they added a digital component to their programming! Anyone can now purchase the Teen Vogue Fashion U sessions (either as a package or a la carte). I haven’t watched yet but hope to soon! Let me know if you do / have recommendations or feedback on the sessions.

I believe so much in this event as it aligns so perfectly with the purpose of my blog, to provide guidance to those looking to get into the fashion industry (as I learn how to do this myself).

Cheers!

New Fashion and Design College via Condé Nast

Note – this started out as an article whose purpose fashion classroomwas to talk about Condé Nast’s new school for fashion addicts… and turned into a thought-recap of the last 6 years of my life: from fashion merchandising student to marketing maven.

If you are more interested in the Condé Nast fashion programs… here are a few articles you can read (I completely understand):

An important fact about the LONDON based school: While Condé Nast‘s initial plans do not say degrees will be awarded for the year-long programs, talks are underway regarding affiliations with other universities. Course topics: the history of fashion and design and related journalism and business skills.

and here is the bit I told you resulted in me trying to write a blog post….

I’ve been thinking on and off for the past few months (okay, maybe since my second semester of freshmen year at Columbia College Chicago as a fashion major) about what it would have been like if I’d have went to a real deal fashion school like Parson’s, FIT, FIDM or even Central Saint Martins. I’d chosen not to apply to these schools because I had a heart set on Chicago – a city I had grown to love more and more each time I went to visit my dad – and State street shopping (I know, kind of sad that in an entire city that holds such amazing shops as Michigan avenue and an unlimited amount of charming boutiques in Chicago’s many, many neighborhoods… State street is where dad would take me; hello daughter of a construction worker).

Anyways, now that I am out of college and have been for over 8 months – I am starting to wonder WHAT WAS I THINKING? Not in a completely negative sense, just in a very brain-filled-with-thoughts-for-hours-on-end kind of way:

What would it be like if I went abroad?

Or, what would it have been like if I had taken the trip to NYC, lived in a hole in the wall with a random off the street and started from square one… working anywhere to meet just one person who could help me into my first fashion related volunteer opportunity/internship/retail job/real job?!

Or, what would be like if I’d not have changed my major from fashion merchandising to marketing (we didn’t exactly have a fashion marketing/fashion business major so this was my next best bet).

Truthfully, I should have went abroad. Even if it hadn’t been for fashion. I had almost 100% taken the jump to teach English in China but that dream was swiftly pulled once I took a Chinese course and realized if I went I might a) return in a split second or b) stay year after year after year and not return -and not see my family whom I became a lot more attached to once I left my high school PITA days behind. I also considered taking the money I had saved up (and not used to pay off some of my ugly student loans) to travel to many places (hosteling or staying with families of friends for certain lengths of time) but somewhere I checked that off the list too.

The positive: I’m glad I went the marketing route. I’m overly obsessed with mashable.com, brandchannel.com, and virtually any site with writer’s that care about and discuss what is working for companies (in any industry) and what is not working; reading case studies and uncovering my own case studies by comparing what certain organizations have done over time; and looking at what the billions of fashion brands are attempting (and exceeding expectations) with digital. Obsessed.

Hmm, let’s see. The purpose of this article was to express my extreme yearn to be one of the 300 applicants (where can one even apply?) to Condé Nast’s new fashion and design college. I really expected that with my severely advanced google-ing abilities I would have figured it out by now, but blimey – looks like it’s not time to stumble upon it yet.

*Photo source: cluster8

Last Call to Enter Fashion Designs in Competition – Grand Rapids, MI

Fashion Design Competition

Register your fashion designs at http://www.FashionOnTheGrand.com

Registration Open for Nationwide Fashion Design Competition

Grand Rapids, Mich. — Designer registration opens Friday, June 3 for Fashion on the Grand 2011, a nationwide fashion show and design competition held in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Fashion designers from across the country are invited to submit their avant-garde sketches for a chance to be one of 40 designers chosen to compete at the August 27 event for a grand prize of $5,000, dress form courtesy of PGM, prize basket and a cover story with a local magazine. 2nd and 3rd prize winners will receive $500 and $250 respectively, a prize basket and a dress form.

Fashion on the Grand is open to all fashion designers of legal residence in the U.S. over the age of 18. “One amazing concept, one drawing and 100 words is all you need to enter!” Official rules and registration form can be found on the event’s website, www.fashiononthegrand.com.

Host Matthew Agency, Inc will provide models for Fashion on the Grand designers to bring one avant-garde look to life on the runway. Local stylists from écouter salon will provide hair and makeup to complement each designers piece and presenting sponsor Siegel Jewelers will add the final touches.

Designer submissions will be accepted through July 1, 2011 and the 40 designers that will compete at Fashion on the Grand will be announced July 11, 2011. Each selected contestant will attend the event on August 27 at Lyon Square in downtown Grand Rapids.

Fashion on the Grand is the sequel to the 2010 Runway on Monroe. The May 2010 event attracted more than 2,000 guests. More information on last year’s event can be found at www.runwayonmonroe.com.

Fashion Illustration Workshop – This Week! Attend!

Fashion Illustrator? Attend this event with WouldYouRockThis

Fashion Drawing Session: http://www.meetup.com/FashionDrawingSession/

Thursday, Jan 27th @ 6-9pm & Saturday, Jan 29th @ 3-6pm

We’ll start with quick 5-minute model poses to loosen up then move into longer timed poses for more detailed illustrations. The model will change outfits periodically.

Location:
Ripley-Grier Studios
520 8th Avenue 16th Floor
Between 36th & 37th St
NYC

Who was Alexander McQueen?

Getting to know the late fashion designer, A. McQueen

by Call Me Stylista

McQueen, the beginner

The perennial Bad Boy of fashion had a very early initiation into the world of clothes. He started by making dresses for his three sisters which led him to leave school with an O-level in arts at 16 and then serve as an apprentice under Savile Row tailors, Anderson & Sheppard.

McQueen returned to London in 1994 and applied to Central Saint Martin’s College of Art & Design, to work as a pattern cutter tutor. Because of the strength of his portfolio he was persuaded by the Head of the Masters course to enrol in the course as a student. He received his masters degree in fashion design and his graduation collection was bought in its entirety by influential fashion stylist Isabella Blow.

In 1996 LVMH chose McQueen to succeed John Galliano as head designer at Givenchy. McQueen eventually parted ways with Givenchy in 2001, when he claimed his contract with the French label was ‘constraining his creativity. Under his own label, and with the help of the Gucci group, which acquired a 51 per cent stake in the business, he built a fashion empire. Today, McQueen has flagship stores in New York, Milan, London and LA, an accessories collection, a menswear collection; and eyewear.

McQueen, the showman extraordinaire

Alexander McQueen’s shows were nothing short of monumental. During his Spring 2001 RTW show the audience sat around a mirrored cube, which, when lit from inside, revealed itself to be a mental-hospital holding cell. Demented girls, wearing hospital headbands and everything from extraordinary mussel-shell skirts to impossibly chic pearl-colored cocktail dresses, slithered and strutted.

For his comparatively cleaner and more sober Fall 2002 collection, McQueen couldn’t resist a lone, macabre trick—a vista of a pack of caged wolves, and the opening image of a lone figure clad in a purple leather cape leading a pair of dogs.

His Spring 2004 show was an exuberantly hilarious re-enactment of Sydney Pollack’s Depression-era film ‘They Shoot Horses, Don’t They?’  The narrative involved dancers, models, and audience in a visceral celebration of exquisitely glamorous clothes.

His Fall 2009 show which had women with sex-doll lips and sometimes painfully theatrical costumes was heralded as the future of fashion by the industry-insiders but was nothing compared to the frenzy that greeted his Spring 2010 collection. It was strong statement about the future of our ecology, the incessant global warming which would force humans to live in the sea. These very humans evolving into alien-like reptiles were depicted in his collection. Having been embraced by the likes of Lady GaGa, it would be no exaggeration to assert that McQueen’s penchant for punk interjected with futuristic romanticism was not only accepted but also appreciated by the masses.

Apart from these there were innumerable moments during his shows that would leave the audience spell-bound. Like Shalom Harlow twirling on a turntable as she was spray-painted by a robotic arm; a ghostly apparition of Kate Moss that appeared and vaporized in a glass pyramid to the haunting strains of “Schindler’s List,” and para-Olympian record-holder Aimee Mullins striding down the catwalk on hand-carved wooden prosthetic legs with integrated boots.

McQueen, the trend god

Alexander McQueen was the man who made the builder’s bum fashionable. His “bumsters”, which appeared in 1996, spawned the trend in perilously low-rise, crevice-revealing jeans. The bumster is what defines McQueen, because it put him on the map and got him noticed as a force to be reckoned with.

One enduring motif which McQueen transported from catwalk to the High Street was the skull. His trademark scarf bearing the design has become a celebrity must-have. Johnny Depp, Lindsay Lohan, Nicole Ritchie and Cameron Diaz are among the stars who have been snapped wearing it.

His razor-sharp tailored looks fused the romantic with the edgy avant-garde, a fresh contrast that won international acclaim. In cutting his teeth at Anderson & Sheppard, and Gieves and Hawkes, McQueen learned the disciplines of shape and proportion in traditional tailoring. During this time he even made a suit for Prince Charles.

McQueen’s technical virtuosity grew quickly to eye-popping engineered prints. McQueen the creative palette extended further than just clothes. Some of McQueen’s most memorable designs were outlandish, unconventional and plain bizarre.

In his signature doc martens and with his close-cropped hair,this outspoken designer, who died on 11th February, 2010 was affectionately dubbed by the fashion press “the hooligan of English fashion,” or the “l’enfant terrible.”

-end-

*Her screenname, Not Fashionista. Call Me Stylista, aptly describes the fashion philosophy of this 20 year old law student from India who lives, dreams and breathes fashion. Armed with a personal blog called Call Me Stylista, this fashion addict has big plans to conquer the fashion world one fine day.

Photo credit: www.style.com www.net-a-porter.com www.designmuseum.org